12 Days In Linz
Hello and welcome back! As promised this entry is all about my time in Linz, Austria. After spending 12 days in Linz I certainly have a few stories to share. But, why so much time in Linz, you and every Austrian I’ve met might ask? Well, my boyfriend, Nici, travels quite a bit for work and was sent to the city for a business trip... I simply decided to tag along. So, while Nici worked most days, I set out to explore city (and catch up on jet lag).
Before we go any further, let me share a little bit of information on Linz. If you are like me, you may recognize the name but not know much more past that. Linz is the capital city of Upper Austria and the third largest city in the country. Situated on the Danube, earliest records of the city date back to the first century, when it was known as Lentia, a Roman fort.
Over time, Linz grew in economic, military, and political significance eventually becoming known as the industrial heart of Austria. With all of this, it is important to acknowledge that Linz has a dark past. During World War II, the city was closely tied to the Nazi regime. It played a key role in several industrial plans and was the site of several concentration and labor camps. A somber past the city still carries with it.
Today, Linz is known for its technology and arts scene. It has been named as an UNESCO City of Media Arts, creating a blend of its historical roots and a modern cultural identity.
Okay, now with the history lesson out of the way, we can dive into the adventure of it all.
We arrived in Linz bright and early at 8:00 AM on a Monday morning. Nici made his way to work and I made my way somewhere, anywhere. Not knowing my way around at all, I was open to wherever the city streets would take me.
Walking through Linz is like walking through a piece of history. You can see it in the colorful buildings lining the streets, you can feel it in the cobblestones beneath your feet, and you smell it in all of the little cafés that seem to be on every single corner.
My first day in Linz was mostly spent walking in and out of shops, down side streets, along the Danube, and eventually finding a shaded bench to catch up on all of my book club chapters (haha). The river is lined with so many walking and biking paths, and of course reading benches. I spent a little bit of every day near the river.
The days to follow consisted of going to cafes, strolling through of the city, and attempting to practice my German. Up until this trip, I'd always had Nici to translate for me but with him working I was on my own. And let me tell you with my first few attempts I was nervous. The voice in my head had so many questions: What if I speak and no one understands me? What if I don't understand what someone says to me? What if I think I am ordering one thing and get something completely different in return?
My first attempt at ordering in German was at Barista Brunch Linz, a little coffee shop I wandered into one day. Before stepping up to the counter I rehearsed exactly what I would say; "ein Chai Latte mit Espresso. Haben Sie sojamilch?". And while the order was simple, I was so proud of myself and did a little happy dance in my mind.
This theme continued throughout the week. Mostly practicing in coffee shops and cafés... because coffee, duh. Which leads me to one of my favorite Linz moments. Coffee and Linzer Torte at Café Traxlmayr; established in 1847 and constructed on the grounds of the former city wall, the café has an extensive and rich history.
I sat myself at a table outside in the sun, which was a mistake because within minutes I was drenched in sweat and the entire table became scorchingly hot (the things we do to keep the tan up). However, being the stubborn person I am, I stayed in my seat and ordered a Kleiner Schwarzer, essentially a Viennese shot of espresso. Served on a silver tray with a glass of water and a spoon. I obviously had to order a slice of Linzer Torte too, the jam tart that Linz is known for. While it was tasty, it was also quite dry.
I have come to learn that café culture is an essential part of Austrian life. It is quite common to go to a café, order your coffee and food, and read your book. No one rushes you and you are encouraged to take your time. People can spend hours simply enjoying. So, that is exactly what I did. I placed my order and read my book. And I wasn't alone, there were many others like me with their coffee and stories.
The weekend in Linz brought about my favorite adventure. Up on a hill in Linz sits Pöstlingberg. A pilgrimage site since the 18th century and the site of the former Pöstlingberg Fort. The pilgrimage basilica Seven Sorrows of the Virgin Mary still stands tall and remnants of the old fort remain, including some of the old defense towers. Nici and I took the train- the Pöstlingbergbahn- from the city center up to the top of the hill where we were met with a panoramic views of Linz below. We spent the day hiking to old tower ruins, stopping for potato soup at a café, visiting the church, and stopping at all the view points for photos.
The most whimsical part of the day was going on the Grottenbahn. Originally built in 1906 and rebuilt in 1948 after being destroyed by World War II, The Grottenbahn is in one of the old defense towers. A dragon themed train takes you around in a circle showing off different fairytales. As you exit the ride, you walk through a replica of Linz's historic town square and various scenes from Brothers Grimm fairytales. And while this is largely meant for kids, I still enjoyed the whimsy of it all.
After our time on the dragon train, we attempted to hike our way to a few of the other remaining towers but after some unintended off-roading, Nici and I found ourselves on a secluded bench overlooking the rolling green hills.
If you ever find yourself in Linz, whether it is for one day or twelve days, Pöstlingberg is worth your time.
My last day in Linz was spent at the Ars Electronica Center, also known as "The Museum of The Future". Exhibits range from AI, robotics, engineering, biotechnology, and more. While the exhibits were fascinating, I think the most enjoyable part is the interactive lab. I think I spent over an hour in that one spot interacting with all of the displays.
Full transparency, this is one of Nici's favorite museums and if he didn't tell me how interesting it is, I am not sure I would have gone on my own accord, at first glance it didn't seem like my cup of tea. I learned rather quickly that was not the case, there was so much to learn and see.
I know this entry is getting rather long but it would be an injustice to not talk about all of the amazing food we ate over those 12 days. I was pleasantly surprised at all of the options Linz had to offer.
Nici and I tend to find ourselves largely drawn to Asian cuisine- Korean, Vietnamese, Japanese, the list goes on and on. So, it was no surprise that dinner the first night was at a Korean spot down the street from our hotel. It was also no surprise that we went there three more times. It was delicious. This is also where I discovered my new favorite way to drink red wine...just add some lychee lemonade (seriously, trust me on this one).
In between meals at the Korean spot, we found ourselves at a Vietnamese restaurant, a ramen place, a restaurant that specializes in ribs, an Indian joint, a cinnamon roll cafe, and an Italian chain that I am now obsessed with. Oh, and of course ice cream pretty much every night.
As I bring this entry to a close, I think it is only fair to acknowledge that Linz has quite a bit to offer but you do not need more than a week there. So, while I did a lot of exploring, I also had a lot of time to relax. Time to read, sleep, play Stardew Valley, and journal. A healthy balance of doing and being, which is something I think we all need a little bit more of.
If you were fascinated by anything I mentioned above and want more information, all of the links are included below!
Until next time!
♡Liv
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Photos:
The Sights:
The Food: